You might be familiar with the seven wonders of the world, but what if I told you that you could taste them, right here in Kingston! I’ve chosen seven restaurants located in the Kingston Emporium, and I’m going to take you along with me this semester to understand the food, stories and people who are essential to these weeknight wonders. Each week, we’ll uncover the history and heritage of a restaurant; we’ll examine the ecosystem of chefs, cooks and servers behind each plate; and we’ll savor the flavors that provide the cultural nuance and meaning to a meal. Part food review, part restaurant profile, this series examines the relationship between community and cuisine on our campus. Hopefully, it also encourages you to use your palate as a culinary passport and experience more of the world. Let’s think beyond our borders. Welcome to “Weeknight Wonders.”
This is the story of Caliente, the fairytale wonder that never ceases to amaze.
Once upon a time, there was a king, and he dreamed of giving his family the life they deserved. He wasn’t born into wealth or good standing. Everything he had was something he once worked extremely hard for. He asked his brother to build a castle with him, to put his trust in a brighter future where his subjects could be led by someone who wanted them to succeed. Generous and kind, he began to watch his kingdom prosper. The 11 provinces quickly became 12 and then 13. His subjects were happy. They loved the king, and they loved his food.
CEO Franquin Rodezno, known as Frank by all, came to the United States at 18 years old. He was born and raised in Honduras but spent a few of his teenage years in Mexico before immigrating. He credits America for giving him a versatile and expansive culinary education. He learned about food by experiencing the country’s diverse offerings.
I should know. I’m incredibly proud to be a California native, born and raised in a state across the country that is incredibly enriched by Spanish culture, art and flavors. Mexican food holds a special place in my heart – it’s deeply intertwined in my understanding of the global food landscape. Taco trucks lined the streets of my neighborhood, shaping my childhood in intangible ways. Lime, Tajin and chamoy draw me in like a moth to a flame. The way to my heart is clearly drawn even if I’m 2,560 miles away.
But the emporium has changed things. I walk about half a mile from Peck Hall, and suddenly, I’m home. An older gentleman on a horse peers at me through the mural on the wall. It’s Rodezno’s father and his favorite horse. Facing the wall of cacti, amongst a gradient of crimson and cerulean blue, are Frank Rodezno Jr. and the other chefs and servers. The doors to the castle are open. The aroma of grilled meat stirs my senses. “Let’s eat.” My taste buds tingle.
Rodezno’s dream to be self-made finds its way into his food. Each ingredient is sourced with intention. Avocados ripened under the Californian sunshine, Roma tomatoes picked off the vine and steak weighed by the instability of inflation. Three street tacos sit in a cranberry wicker basket, falling into one another. Pickled onions pillow at the top, tangy and sweet like mulberry jam. The guacamole settles into a thick pistachio paste with the faintest hints of red from the diced Roma. Light and refreshing, it cools my tongue. I can’t resist dipping a chip into the heart of the dish. The beans and rice melt into warmth. Their flavors are rich and nuanced, the perfect foundation when paired with the raw ingredients. The food is simple, understated and transformational. Only the most perfect ingredients are plated.
As I sip on my mango-flavored Jarritos, I can’t help but savor first-year Lux Kimmer’s experience. Halfway into the 007 tacos, her joy is contagious. The food reaches the innermost corners of her memory.
“Honestly, it reminds me a lot of the food my grandma makes,” Kimmer said. “I’m half-Ecuadorian, and the way the meat is cooked is so similar to how we do it at home.”
The restaurant was intentionally designed to remind customers of home and their loved ones. It’s a family business after all. An incredible dream Rodezno Jr. is set to inherit.
“I got the whole family involved with me,” Rodezno said. “The chef in the back, the older guy, he’s like a brother of mine. We grew up together; he’s a cousin, but at the same time we grew up in the same house, the same neighborhood together. And then his wife, my sisters, my son – you know, it’s all family.”
13 locations in, expansion seems to weigh on both of their minds.
“We have 11 open right now,” Rodezno said. “Pawtucket’s going to be open in a couple of weeks. And then Fall River in a month.”
There’s a hunger to “make [the business] better, manage it better and make it more profitable.” Rodezno said.
Rodezno Jr. is poised but invested. He’s currently studying business management at college with the hope of one day building upon his father’s work.
“I also have a soft spot for this location,” Rodezno Jr. said. “Just because I was a little kid when I first started working here.”
Caliente seems beloved by its clientele, but more so by its culinary ecosystem. A love for food bleeds through the Rodezno family, drawing people in with their warmth and attention to detail. The chimichanga Kimmer bites into seems to echo this sentiment. It is starkly different in texture from the tres leches we share at the end, but it seems to encapsulate Caliente’s menu well. Everything is personalized, intentional and generous. Chips and salsa included.
Generational wealth takes a physical form in painted murals and spicy salsa at Caliente Mexican Grill. Food and family are rarely separate. The ingredients shine, the people smile, the flavors surprise. What a delight to reach the end of the storybook and realize it’s only just the beginning.
The newest location opens in Pawtucket on Thursday. I really hope you find some time this week to make your way to Caliente and order some carnitas off the menu. Five stars.
Caliente Mexican Grill ☆ ☆ ☆☆ ☆
Atmosphere: A small restaurant where customers can stand and order before sitting outside in the booth seating.
Noise Level: Normal levels outside of rush hour times. The background music might make you want to dance, though!
Tasted Dishes: Veggie Street Tacos, BYOB-Veggie, Chimichanga, 007 Tacos with carnitas, Avocado Salad, Mango Jarritos and Tres Leches
Price: $ (roughly $12 per entree item)
Open: Weekdays from 10 am to 11 pm, Weekends from 11 am to 11 pm
URI Location: 99 Fortin Road, Kingston, RI 02881
Pawtucket Location: 295 Armistice Blvd, Pawtucket, RI 02861
What the Stars Mean: Ratings range from zero to five stars. Zero is poor. One star, fair or satisfactory. Two stars, good. Three stars, very good. Four stars, excellent. Five stars, extraordinary.
